donderdag 25 augustus 2011

Sanchi, 25 augustus

The  sweet talking Indian at the Khajuraho busstop
Fixing the tyre at some tiny little men-only shit hole in the middle of nowhere

One of the entrance gates of Stupa n° 1 in Sanchi











Pilgrims at the Stupa site in Sanchi



Cave in Udaygiri


Raja, my personal driver/guide for the day, carrying my bag :)


School's out!

With the teachers in the school I visited with Raja

Litterally: old school!

In front of the school with to my left the principle

The colors keep amazing me.

Unfortunately I didn't roll the window down.

Craftsman in Vidisha

Raja having a happy day with his madam ;)
Good afternoon dear reader,

writing this from a sunny and warm Sanchi. I just visited the archaeological site that is also UNESCO protected, and honestly I was not really impressed. The stupa's are supposed to be a big deal but eventhough I see the beauty of the phenomenon and I appreciate the sculpting, I don't feel the awe like I felt it in the other places I 've seen so far.
More interesting to waste some words on: the freakin bus ride I took from Kajuraho to Bhopal. My GAWD was that a ride from hell or what. The noisy and obnoxious students on the bus were only the tip of the iceberg. First time in my life to take a bus with an actual sleeper. The top of the bus were mattressed cabins that could be closed with little sliding doors, which seemed super comfy at first glance. And it kind of was, until the roads were more and more Indian style, meaning unpaved and with bumps and holes galore. I got thrown up and down and back and forth that small sleeping cabin like a bag of potatoes. I bumped my head countless times and hardly slept. On top of the rocking and swinging there were two babies crying incessantly, which made me, a person who usually loves babies, want to launch the two little suckers off the bus alltogether.
Somewhere halfway the bus stopped due to tyre issues. It was around one in the morning so it was pitch dark in the little shithole where we stopped to get the tyre fixed. A white woman seemed an entirely new concept for the men hangin around the place. The stalls only sold chewing tobacco (no cookies madam) and a restroom was unheard of. Once they understood what I wanted I was shown  a small cemented space behind some gulfplate, which had no toilet features at all, there was not even a hole in the ground. The smell of piss was sick making. I thanked for the offer and started looking for an alternative with my little torch, and in the end I just sat behind a parked Tata truck. Less smelly and at least just as clean as an indian toilet.
Around six thirty we arrived in Bhopal. After half an hour searching for a decent, cheap room (no vacancies madam)I decided to skip Bhopal ( your own fault you stupid fully booked city) and take the bus to Sanchi. Here I am staying at another average place, for 300 roopie /night. The owner is a very nice guy and offered me some yoga and meditation practice free of charge.

And then maybe a little side note. The attraction I have on Indian men is freakin me out sometimes. Flattering to be the exotic one for a change, but sometimes it gets really weird. Last night I was accompanied to the busstation by some guy who had offered me some cheap silver earrings the other day in Khajuraho. I never went to his store since I had better things to do, since I was hanging out with another handsome man the Indian didn't really leave an impression. When he joined me to the busstop (in the rikshaw he payed for) I noticed what a goodlooking guy he actually was, but still your typical Indian player all the same... At the bus stand we had a cigarette (yeah  i picked that up again after Gwen left, I'm a loser allright) and we talked a little bit about this and that. Either way he was trying to get me in his bed, I explicitly told him there was no way but he was determined to stay with me until the bus left. 'Life can change every five minutes, you never know what is going to happen!' Sure, dream on. He even offered me to buy a new bus ticket for the next day just to make me stay the night with him in Khajuraho!! 'Khajuraho temples have special energy, makes special needs. I have what you don't have, you have what I don't have, so we connect special way.' Even when his proposal was pretty indecent, he was polite and charming and didn't get rude or pushy. I was more amused than apalled and laughed at his silliness for actually believing I was gonna take the offer. I went to the bus that (thank God) had arrived at the bus stand by then. He joined me ON the bus (!!) and asked me for 'just one kiss', explaining me how the energy was supposed to flow between man and woman... honestly dude. I said no, again, and then all of a sudden he rushed off the bus with hardly a goodbye. These INDIANS!!!

I hope I don't need to label these blogs as inappropriate for under 16...

Pics follow soon.

Greets and godspeed!

Tinie x
We waited at the crossing for this super duper train-thingy

woensdag 24 augustus 2011

Khajuraho, 24 augustus












Hidiho sweet readers,

a bit of a down day today, after three happy days spent with Alberto. This blog is slowly turning into a cheezy soap opera! As I told him this morning: I'm a horrible let-goër. Even as I am traveling for the sake of learning to let go, for the sake of not getting attached to the metaphorical riverside, I get settled in my newly discovered and almost inconsciously but firmly installed comfort-zone as easily as ever. I'm not looking forward to going to Bhopal at all. I'm sulking and far from even-spirited... the Indians trying to sell me their crap noticed it this morning, I was basically ignoring them or telling them to f*** off, which is usually not my thing. Traveling to get out of the dreaded homely comfort-zone, and creating new ones all along the way... how ironic. It's human nature, I guess. It sure as hell is mine.
Anyway, to make a long story short (not my thing either but I'll try): Alberto and I were hitting it off big time. Now I am sad for not being able to spend more time together, thinking what if... Well, everybody who knows me, knows how I am capable of getting carried away in the blink of an eye (Sigrid don't kick me!lol), so it's hard to trust my instincts when it comes to the matters of the heart (and loins ahum). Joining him to Varanasi was an option for a brief moment but not a good idea, he said it was only going to complicate matters and that there was no point in that, since he's gonna be heading back to Italy in three days and I am still traveling for another four months. He 's right of course, once again the sensible guy in the story is saving me from stupid, romantically motivated, impulsive and immature behaviour that only gets me into trouble. But I think of his petrol colored eyes and cocky smile, curly hair and red all stars... He studied at Berkeley for crying out loud. He's pretty much as much my type as one gets. I could seriously get used to hanging out with him. He likes being flattered so whatever, i'm not  gonna lie. And I'm not scared of being judged over this either (hey mom and dad, big sis, worried friends and whoever else is rolling their eyes reading this) for the only judge that counts is God. And honestly, admit you are entertained :)
So yeah, back to reality: leaving on the night bus to Bhopal at six. The electricity just got cut again, so I'm melting here and I hope the wifi is gonna be operative again soon, cuz I wanna  add the pics (they speak for themselves as far as my tourist activities here are concerned) and post this.

Cheers, godspeed,

Tinie xox


maandag 22 augustus 2011

Khajuraho, 22 augustus



Wall paintings in the LakshmiNarayan Temple, Orchha






This dude is preparing the dough for delicious samosa's, in the street near the hotel I was staying at in Orchha
The stuff they use to paint bindi's, seen at the market in Orchha
Vultures on the lotus rooftop of the palace in Orchha
Palace, Orchha



Hey you dear reader,

Today I am writing you from the garden/restaurant at Surya hotel, where I can use WIFI, halleluja! So I am making the most out of it: uploading pics again onto picasa (booo for flickr) so I'll be able to link pics in this blog aswell, so no more flicking back and forth to Facebook to see whatever the hell I am talking about.
After the break I took in Rishikesh, it's back to tourist-mode. I took a night train to Jhansi, from where I got a cab ride to pretty Orchha. The train ride was fine, until the morning, when all the Indian dudes had to brush their teeth where I was waiting to get off the train (eagerly hoping for the train to roll into the station, which took forEVER, seriously, we arrived an hour late) and brushing teeth apparently involves long and deliberate cleaning of the throat, in the most disgusting possible way. It makes my stomach turn when I hear someone do it, let alone when they spit the mucus in the wash basin right before your eyes... yay. Welcome to Jhansi.
Albertooooo! He looks even better with glasses ;)
So yesterday and the day before I was in Orchha, a small town with another palace, beautifully situated along a river. The palace is another case of forlorn glory, and not all that spectacular after seeing all the amazingly beautiful palaces in Rajastan. But still, the surroundings are exquisit, which makes up for the lack of splendour. Gwen, thanks for the recommendation, it was well worth a visit! Didn't stay at the place hotel tho, I'm trying to keep the budget down. When I was looking for a  cheap ride (yes, budget indeed!) up to the LakshmiNarayan Temple, I kindov jumped on the first sole traveler I saw, which happened to be a handsome Italian haha, and we are hangin out ever since. He's a sweet guy, who probably doesn't  really know what to think of the funny Belgian, but hey, we get along alright and i actually got a free ride up to here from Orchha with his driver, AND got to swim in the pool at his luxurious hotel in Orchha aswell (he's travelling for just two weeks so his budget is slightly different from mine). Anyway, Orchha: check. It also happened to be my B-day yesterday so I was glad not having to spend it all alone; Alberto: thx for the company!!
Khajuraho is all about the temple complex that has many reliefs and statues with Kama Sutra motives. Not coïncidentially one of the most famous tourist sites in the country, and UNESCO protected. Might also get a motorbike tomorrow and go check the waterfall out of the town which is supposed to be awesome with my new Italian friend. We'll see.
Stay tuned my sweet friends,
greets and godspeed,
Tinie

dinsdag 16 augustus 2011

Rishikesh, 15 augustus

Hi there my sweet readers,

I'm writing you from the internet cafe on the ground floor of the hotel I'm staying at in Rishikesh. It's only 150 irs a night,so I can afford to hang here a little longer and upload pics on FB. The pic upload on Flickr is an issue: it is gonna take at least four hours to get the 800 pics that I took so far uploaded. And I don't see me sit here for four hours in a row. I'll probably get another disc burnt, although I really think putting them online is so much safer.. and it's kindov urgent since my memory card is full. Anyway, instead of bugging you guys with the technical troubles,I should tell you some more about the ashram.

Some highlights.

Mataji's cooking workshops: she showed us how to cook sattvic food. The first time she did some curries, the second time she made four different kinds of sweets. Awesome! Awen is sending me the pics once she's online.

Meditation in Swami Vishnu devananda's cave in Gangautri. The energy level was soaring. It made me cry (again, man am I having fun here!!) and I had some me-time on a big rock in the Ganges, sunbathing and emptying my head. Bliss.

The puja for Sarasvati. The Satsang Hall looked beautiful. A centre row of oil lamps, flamked by two rows of pillows for all of us. We offered Merigold flowers, rice and red mineral powder to the goddess while chanting. Hopefully will get the pics from Elin.

The receiving of my personal mantra. The participants who didn't have a personal mantra yet, received one from Mataji with a small ritual in the temple. I'm very happy with mine; amazing how well Mataji appears to know us after so short a period. The mantra is totally compatible. Sorry that I can't share it; it would lose its power...

The talent show. On the last evening in the ashram, there was a little show, high school style, where everyone who wanted could show off a skill. I did a bit of poi spinning (easy success with the glowing ones in the dark!), there was a pictionary game, and a self made mantra about Mataji that was made by Alice and Nora, very sweet and clearly much appreciated by the object of the song!! And last but not least there was a dead funny play with the story of Ram by Elin, Caroline, Nora and Pradeep. I laughed my ass off!!


There is probably more sensible things to say about the two weeks I spent there,but I have a hard time making truely profound comments sitting behind this 30 rupee an hour- computer screen. I started writing a fiction on my notebook that is of course based on what I'm experiencing, and I think it might prove to be a little less shallow than what you get here... so for the real fans, there is more to come, on paper.

Either way, thx for staying tuned,and godspeed!

Tinie x






maandag 15 augustus 2011

Ashram, 9 en 10 augustus


Kopied from memory stick
Netala, 9 augustus







I am sitting in the bottom bunk bed in the room I share at the ashram. Name of the ashram: SivanandaKutir. Nearest town: Uttarkashi.
I am trying to gather my thoughts after nine intense, hard but rewarding days. Let’s start with a little background info.  This ashram was built by Swami Sivanada and after his death taken over by Swami Vishnu-Devananda. (The former  actually had a grave dug, went into it and then left his body consciously… a holy man indeed.) Swami Vishnu-Devananda, the second swami to run this place, was an amazing personality, who was sent by Sivananda to the West and got the TTC (teachers training course) organized, with all the centers and the networking that go with it. It’s probably safe to say that he is responsible for the  spreading of yoga practice all over the world. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong. He’s also the one who flew over the Berlin Wall in the eighties (!!!). He was very committed to spreading the message of peace and unity in diversity, which I think is totally admirable. If only there were more people like him. The Swami leading the ashram today is a woman who combines girly sweetness with the kind of ‘severe but just’- attitude that becomes a good teacher. I like her.Mataji’s teachings are well-dosed, and lit up by her sense of humor and down-to-earth remarks and questions.
Now what does a day in the ashram look like?
At twenty past four (ranga danga ding dong!!) the first gong goes.
Ten to six the second gong, and at six we are expected freshly showered and dressed in the satsang hall for half an hour of meditating, half an hour of chanting and usually another half an hour of teaching (the story of the Mahabharatha and the Bhagavath Gita), concluded with the Arati. Arati is a chanted prayer, which includes a prayer for Mother Ganga. We sing it facing the river. After Arati we kneel before the altar and get Prasad, a small snack, usually a piece of fruit, or something sweet.
After the morning session we have some free time until half past seven. Then we get tea which is welcome on the empty stomach, believe me. We chat for a while and then get ready for the Asana class (yoga practice) which goes on from eight till about twenty to ten. After yoga we have just enough time to change quickly because at ten we get brunch, and usually they start early so better to be there five minutes to ten. The food is delicious, and we get as much as we can eat (losing weight might not really happen afterall ;)). Usually after fifteen minutes we’re done and then we rinse off the plates and cups and get to do our Karma Yoga(= selfless service). Basically everyone got an area in the ashram to sweep and mop. Once every other day I do laundry after I finished my Karma Yoga.
Afternoons are pretty much the same drill: at two we get a reading by Mataji (we discuss the Creation, the Aspects of Life, the meaning and purpose of Hatha Yoga etc), after that there’s tea, at four we get another session of Asana and at six dinner. At eight there’s Satsang again with meditation, chanting and Arati.
It seems horribly boring and quite an ordeal, and so it was the first couple of days. But every day it gets easier, the sore muscles got replaced by an eagerness to go further and further, the painful knees and back during  the Satsang are less present since the focus is more on the meditation, the empty stomach no longer disturbs, but is welcomingly accepted. I’m making great progress in yoga: almost succeeded in standing in headstand for over twenty seconds; legs got much more flexible. Just the getting up in headstand alone is thrilling! I’m really having fun with it.
More tomorrow, need some shut-eye now. Godspeed!
Greets Tinie

Netala, 10 augustus
Where were we? The daily routine in the ashram, right.
The morning Satsang is usually tough since sitting up straight in cross legged position for over half an hour when you’re half awake is obviously not easy. But it gets better as the days go by, and the routine has been interrupted by a long walk along the Ganges last Tuesday, a daytrip to Gangautri last Friday, and a walk uphill to a small Durga temple with an amazing view over the valley this morning. Be sure to check the pictures on FB.
The people we are dealing with here are the ten remaining members of an initial group of twenty. A bunch of guests took off because the experience either didn’t meet the expectations or was too hard on them. Part of the deal is that this is not about ‘enjoying oneself’, but about learning to be open to new and sometimes difficult situations… adjust, accomodate, bear insult, injury… anyway, there is ten of us left. In completely random order:
The French girl Gwen, whom I met in Haridwar at the bus stop. We share this dorm with the two of us so we had a chance to get closely acquainted. She turns out to be a smart, funny and strong person with a lot up her sleeve. She lived in Delhi for a couple of years, loves travelling, is a teacher, knows how to make her own clothes. She’s single and lives in Rennes, Bretagne.
The British girl Charlotte who sleeps in the dorm next door, all by herself now since the angry Indian lady and her daughter left. Charlotte is an architect who quit her job with ‘the creative psychopath’ of a boss she had. She can’t be older than twenty five. Fun to be around, easy to talk to, always in for a laugh but capable of serious reflexion too. She’s leaving us on Friday to travel around Rajastan with her boyfriend. Good for you, Charlotte!
The American girl Emily. She did the advanced TTC and knows so much of the chants by heart, I’m totally jealous. Haven’t really talked much so far but we exchange smiles :)
The Swedish girls Elin and Caroline. Maybe not doing them any justice naming them in one breath. Only recently getting to know them a little better. They also took the TTC and are rocking the Asana’s like pro’s. Elin seems to be very serious about this ashram experience, she’s intensely focused at all times. Caroline seems to be the more easy going one of the two. Either way I like them both, they’re just not very easy to approach because they are together a lot and not all that talkative. And believe it or not: neither am I around here!
The British girls Charlie and Alice. Charlie is a chattery, cheerful girl, always ready with a sweet smile or a comforting word. Although she’s all smiles most of the time I get this feeling that she’s probably more in need of a smile and a comforting word than any of us. I might be wrong ofcourse, but I have that experience with my students: usually the loudest, most funloving clowns are trying hard not to show their tears… Her friend Alice is  the more serious one. Looking for calm and balance, she said earlier today. She was actually about to leave when we had our first talk and I unintently persuaded her to stay, and I am so happy I did! Whenever I notice her enjoying the progress that she makes in yoga, it makes me a little bit happy too.
The German girl Nora. She’s also teaching back in Germany. Easy to talk to, fun to hang out with. We took a three-double dip in the Ganges last week. Freezing but sooo good. Unfortunately she got really sick after the trip to Gangautri and stayed in bed for about three days. She’s completely back and kicking now. Gooo, Nora!
The British guy Gregory. He’s a tall, thin man who keeps a bit to himself. He eats like a wolf and doesn’t seem to gain a gram. He’s totally wickedly good at yoga. And Mataji doesn’t understand his accent :)
The Indian guy Pradeep. His name means something like light. He’s a gentle, intelligent and funny man who can actually keep me listening, which is quite an achievement. Since he’s a little older he’s like the experienced teacher, but, so far, not smart-ass or pushy. I enjoy our conversations. The list of interesting Indians gets longer! It’s probably no coincidence that Pradeep  lives in Canada.
Hope I didn’t forget anyone. Ooh there’s the yoga teachers of course: Durga and Kalijani. And Kalesh. Durga and Kalijani are great teachers, fun to be around, easy to talk to. Kalesh I don’t know, he’s a bit of an outsider. He never attends any of the Satsangs or meals, and he didn’t introduce until I asked what his name was… funny birds sometimes these Indian dudes. I do get a liking to his teaching, since he gets  the progression just right; I can keep up but get a good work-out through the Asana’s all the same.
There, so far for the characters involved! So, Viki, to answer your question: no there’s no good looking interesting men around. And that’s just fine, honestly I think this is not the  place to have a fling, it would only distract me more and keep me from attaining the peace and  mental purification I am looking for.
As far as that mental purification is concerned, I’m not sure if that is ever going to happen. JS is still spooking around my head, not as frequently and intensely as before maybe, but still. Thoughts of him throw me off every time. And as for distraction: Akshay called me the other day and I asked him to join me in Rishikesh for a week or so. (Weak is the flesh, no ashram is gonna change that) He said he wanted to but had no money.  Still he promised to try and make it somehow. Not keeping my hopes up though. And I sure as hell won’t offer him to pay any of his expenses, been there done that! If he makes it on his own expense it means he really wants to be there. And if he doesn’t make it, then so be it. All the more time and space to focus on some serious yoga exercise. And moreover I am supposed to keep my heart clean and empty!

Next time some in-depth descriptions of my adventures in the ashram!
Godspeed dear readers,
Greets Tinie