maandag 29 augustus 2011

Mumbai, 29 augustus

Hey there readers of mine,

just wanted to let y'all know that I am fine. I arrived in Mumbai this morning, found a reasonable place through the taxi driver, so it went rather smoothly this time to get settled somewhere. The only downside is the rain. It just doesn't stop, which doesn't really make sight seeing attractive.

I am checking trains or busses to Goa, hoping that the weather will be better there.

After the little heart break episode (Tinie falls in love chapter 568 bis ') I got my head out my ass and as of now I promise to be the singlest, most independent and untouchable traveler EVER.

I'll be kicked out of this place in five, it's closing.

Greets and godspeed,
Tinie


zaterdag 27 augustus 2011

Indore, 27 augustus. The story continues: perfection - rejection - acceptance.


copied from memory stick
Indore, 27 augustus

I am in such a bad mood, I could cry. Who am I kidding, I àm crying. One of the staff members of the hotel just came in without knocking and I am so f***ing angry right now. I could just give him a punch in the face. Glory glory hallelujah, so far for zen. Hello India.

The day started so well though. I felt rejuvenated, back on top of things. I had made amends with the Alberto-situation, well aware of the fact that there is absolutely no reason to be sad over just another castle in the sky. An Italian? Who was I kidding! It had been great and there is more great things yet to come! New adventures awaiting, life is good! The gratitude for the perfection of my random little life was flowing from the top of my skull all the way into my tummy and tiptoes, as I packed my things, humming Nina’s I’m feeling  good. The bus came by right when I came out of the hotel, I got a nice window seat and the sun was shining over the green and peaceful landscape. I closed my eyes enjoying the breeze and the Indian music that for once wasn’t blaring but actually well chosen and not too loud. Aaah bliss, the life of a traveler, nothing to worry about, just taking it all in, om shanti om. At one of the stops there even was a cellphone playing the Arati-song we sang so many times at the ashram: om jaya Gange mata, but instead of Ganga it was Lakshmi this time. I felt tears of joy welling up, you know how I get when things get too perfect. A couple of stops further, a family of Gypsie-like peeps got on the bus. They carried buckets, tools, a chicken on a leash, whatnot. Quite a show. Some of the girls had wild ragged hair, others had beautiful braids, and all of them were dressed in the nicest colors and fabrics, worn out, dusty and who knows when last washed. The couple sitting across me had four stunning looking kids, unfortunately the mom didn’t want me to take their picture. I’m guessing she was embarrassed, cuz after I asked she covered her hair with her sari. Which I thought was unnecessary, the entire point of taking their pic was my thinking they were gorgeous! The  youngest kid, a little boy of about a year old, was so cute I would have put him in a little box and take it home with me. They all had very dark skin, pretty faces and curly hair and I was simply charmed away by their pure and simple beauty. If only I could compliment them on their wonderful children (Hindi unfortunately is not gonna happen). I was at least as unusual to them as they were to me, so we pretty much were staring and exchanging smiles for the next  half an hour. At another stop a bunch of teenage boys came on the bus, and they took turns to sit beside me. Yay. When their cell phones came out to take my picture, I put my shawl over my head and face. I don’t like being photographed by these slick young guys who don’t even bother asking. Strangely enough by then the music was blaring and I put my earplugs in to keep the high tones from hurting my eardrums. It took the bus about two hours to make it to Bhopal. It took me less than an hour to get from overly happy to slightly annoyed.

I was starving when we arrived in Bhopal so before getting on the next bus to Indore I wanted some samosa’s. The guy selling them kept babbling in Hindi, tried to sell me a plate full of stuff I didn’t ask for, charged fifty(!!) roopies for two samosa’s and then was insisting on me taking his picture. I am eating dude. And you get ten. When I finally got my camera out, with the food hardly down my throat,  the Indore bus suddenly started its engine. So instead of being photographed, the samosa man started blowing a whistle to make the driver wait. Several guys turned up out of nowhere, wildly gesticulating and yelling to stop the bus and to usher me onto it. I got another window seat and settled for at least five more hours of happy travels. Om sri Durgayai namah. Times 108. Times twenty.

The arrival and quest for a hotel in Indore was much easier than the other day in Bhopal, thank God. After getting turned down only three times, I found a reasonably clean and cheap hotel near the railway station, called Neelam. I took a shower and did the daily laundry, and then went looking for an internet place to check FB, emails and book a train to Mumbai. (I decided to stop touristing around and go settle somewhere at the beach to do yoga and chill, instead of visiting another fortress or ancient temple complex. Goa here I come.) When I finally found the internet café, about half a mile from the hotel (can you imagine! In a city like this!!), it started raining again and a major thunderstorm passed over. Result: after hardly ten minutes of using the internet there was a power cut (it gets better and better). But ten minutes was enough to read his last message. And it’s that message that got me from slightly annoyed to rather unsettled. It wasn’t surprising, though. I hadn’t expected anything else, really. At least the smart girl inside of me hadn’t. The silly girl in contrary, had secretly hoped for something else: maybe a declaration of his mutual feelings, or at least the expression of his regrets for not being able to spend more time together. Instead he just spelled out what the deal was; how awfully realistic, how painfully sober. No cement for castles in the sky from this guy, girl.(Which I should actually appreciate, I know!)  Although it has crossed my mind to learn Italian, jump on the next flight to Milan, do whatever it takes just to find out who this man is and what our meeting could mean... -like, how can we tell what's worth a chance?- his message now sternly reminded me that it makes no sense to persue this under the present circumstances. He put my feet right back on the ground, where they belong. Grow up Tinie! Game over. AC Milan-Club Brugge: 0-0. Two nights was too little, two nights was too much. But it was perfect all the same, no regrets! I'm just a little disappointed is all. Stupid reality (curling bottom lip down).

I was sitting there in the dark in that internet place for about ten minutes, wondering if I should wait for the power to be switched back on. I left. Mumbai probably will be reached in yet another friggin bus. It was dark outside and the streets were flooded ankle-deep. It was still pouring. Lightning split the pitch black sky every twenty seconds. I walked that half a mile back to my hotel regardless, bravely holding up my broken umbrella, defying traffic, pushing the boundaries of my fear of dark and unclear water once again. We don’t always get a choice: sometimes the only way to get back home is wading through troubled waters. I am getting the hang out of it.

So far for today my sweet readers.

Greets and godspeed,
Tinie

donderdag 25 augustus 2011

Sanchi, 25 augustus

The  sweet talking Indian at the Khajuraho busstop
Fixing the tyre at some tiny little men-only shit hole in the middle of nowhere

One of the entrance gates of Stupa n° 1 in Sanchi











Pilgrims at the Stupa site in Sanchi



Cave in Udaygiri


Raja, my personal driver/guide for the day, carrying my bag :)


School's out!

With the teachers in the school I visited with Raja

Litterally: old school!

In front of the school with to my left the principle

The colors keep amazing me.

Unfortunately I didn't roll the window down.

Craftsman in Vidisha

Raja having a happy day with his madam ;)
Good afternoon dear reader,

writing this from a sunny and warm Sanchi. I just visited the archaeological site that is also UNESCO protected, and honestly I was not really impressed. The stupa's are supposed to be a big deal but eventhough I see the beauty of the phenomenon and I appreciate the sculpting, I don't feel the awe like I felt it in the other places I 've seen so far.
More interesting to waste some words on: the freakin bus ride I took from Kajuraho to Bhopal. My GAWD was that a ride from hell or what. The noisy and obnoxious students on the bus were only the tip of the iceberg. First time in my life to take a bus with an actual sleeper. The top of the bus were mattressed cabins that could be closed with little sliding doors, which seemed super comfy at first glance. And it kind of was, until the roads were more and more Indian style, meaning unpaved and with bumps and holes galore. I got thrown up and down and back and forth that small sleeping cabin like a bag of potatoes. I bumped my head countless times and hardly slept. On top of the rocking and swinging there were two babies crying incessantly, which made me, a person who usually loves babies, want to launch the two little suckers off the bus alltogether.
Somewhere halfway the bus stopped due to tyre issues. It was around one in the morning so it was pitch dark in the little shithole where we stopped to get the tyre fixed. A white woman seemed an entirely new concept for the men hangin around the place. The stalls only sold chewing tobacco (no cookies madam) and a restroom was unheard of. Once they understood what I wanted I was shown  a small cemented space behind some gulfplate, which had no toilet features at all, there was not even a hole in the ground. The smell of piss was sick making. I thanked for the offer and started looking for an alternative with my little torch, and in the end I just sat behind a parked Tata truck. Less smelly and at least just as clean as an indian toilet.
Around six thirty we arrived in Bhopal. After half an hour searching for a decent, cheap room (no vacancies madam)I decided to skip Bhopal ( your own fault you stupid fully booked city) and take the bus to Sanchi. Here I am staying at another average place, for 300 roopie /night. The owner is a very nice guy and offered me some yoga and meditation practice free of charge.

And then maybe a little side note. The attraction I have on Indian men is freakin me out sometimes. Flattering to be the exotic one for a change, but sometimes it gets really weird. Last night I was accompanied to the busstation by some guy who had offered me some cheap silver earrings the other day in Khajuraho. I never went to his store since I had better things to do, since I was hanging out with another handsome man the Indian didn't really leave an impression. When he joined me to the busstop (in the rikshaw he payed for) I noticed what a goodlooking guy he actually was, but still your typical Indian player all the same... At the bus stand we had a cigarette (yeah  i picked that up again after Gwen left, I'm a loser allright) and we talked a little bit about this and that. Either way he was trying to get me in his bed, I explicitly told him there was no way but he was determined to stay with me until the bus left. 'Life can change every five minutes, you never know what is going to happen!' Sure, dream on. He even offered me to buy a new bus ticket for the next day just to make me stay the night with him in Khajuraho!! 'Khajuraho temples have special energy, makes special needs. I have what you don't have, you have what I don't have, so we connect special way.' Even when his proposal was pretty indecent, he was polite and charming and didn't get rude or pushy. I was more amused than apalled and laughed at his silliness for actually believing I was gonna take the offer. I went to the bus that (thank God) had arrived at the bus stand by then. He joined me ON the bus (!!) and asked me for 'just one kiss', explaining me how the energy was supposed to flow between man and woman... honestly dude. I said no, again, and then all of a sudden he rushed off the bus with hardly a goodbye. These INDIANS!!!

I hope I don't need to label these blogs as inappropriate for under 16...

Pics follow soon.

Greets and godspeed!

Tinie x
We waited at the crossing for this super duper train-thingy

woensdag 24 augustus 2011

Khajuraho, 24 augustus












Hidiho sweet readers,

a bit of a down day today, after three happy days spent with Alberto. This blog is slowly turning into a cheezy soap opera! As I told him this morning: I'm a horrible let-goër. Even as I am traveling for the sake of learning to let go, for the sake of not getting attached to the metaphorical riverside, I get settled in my newly discovered and almost inconsciously but firmly installed comfort-zone as easily as ever. I'm not looking forward to going to Bhopal at all. I'm sulking and far from even-spirited... the Indians trying to sell me their crap noticed it this morning, I was basically ignoring them or telling them to f*** off, which is usually not my thing. Traveling to get out of the dreaded homely comfort-zone, and creating new ones all along the way... how ironic. It's human nature, I guess. It sure as hell is mine.
Anyway, to make a long story short (not my thing either but I'll try): Alberto and I were hitting it off big time. Now I am sad for not being able to spend more time together, thinking what if... Well, everybody who knows me, knows how I am capable of getting carried away in the blink of an eye (Sigrid don't kick me!lol), so it's hard to trust my instincts when it comes to the matters of the heart (and loins ahum). Joining him to Varanasi was an option for a brief moment but not a good idea, he said it was only going to complicate matters and that there was no point in that, since he's gonna be heading back to Italy in three days and I am still traveling for another four months. He 's right of course, once again the sensible guy in the story is saving me from stupid, romantically motivated, impulsive and immature behaviour that only gets me into trouble. But I think of his petrol colored eyes and cocky smile, curly hair and red all stars... He studied at Berkeley for crying out loud. He's pretty much as much my type as one gets. I could seriously get used to hanging out with him. He likes being flattered so whatever, i'm not  gonna lie. And I'm not scared of being judged over this either (hey mom and dad, big sis, worried friends and whoever else is rolling their eyes reading this) for the only judge that counts is God. And honestly, admit you are entertained :)
So yeah, back to reality: leaving on the night bus to Bhopal at six. The electricity just got cut again, so I'm melting here and I hope the wifi is gonna be operative again soon, cuz I wanna  add the pics (they speak for themselves as far as my tourist activities here are concerned) and post this.

Cheers, godspeed,

Tinie xox


maandag 22 augustus 2011

Khajuraho, 22 augustus



Wall paintings in the LakshmiNarayan Temple, Orchha






This dude is preparing the dough for delicious samosa's, in the street near the hotel I was staying at in Orchha
The stuff they use to paint bindi's, seen at the market in Orchha
Vultures on the lotus rooftop of the palace in Orchha
Palace, Orchha



Hey you dear reader,

Today I am writing you from the garden/restaurant at Surya hotel, where I can use WIFI, halleluja! So I am making the most out of it: uploading pics again onto picasa (booo for flickr) so I'll be able to link pics in this blog aswell, so no more flicking back and forth to Facebook to see whatever the hell I am talking about.
After the break I took in Rishikesh, it's back to tourist-mode. I took a night train to Jhansi, from where I got a cab ride to pretty Orchha. The train ride was fine, until the morning, when all the Indian dudes had to brush their teeth where I was waiting to get off the train (eagerly hoping for the train to roll into the station, which took forEVER, seriously, we arrived an hour late) and brushing teeth apparently involves long and deliberate cleaning of the throat, in the most disgusting possible way. It makes my stomach turn when I hear someone do it, let alone when they spit the mucus in the wash basin right before your eyes... yay. Welcome to Jhansi.
Albertooooo! He looks even better with glasses ;)
So yesterday and the day before I was in Orchha, a small town with another palace, beautifully situated along a river. The palace is another case of forlorn glory, and not all that spectacular after seeing all the amazingly beautiful palaces in Rajastan. But still, the surroundings are exquisit, which makes up for the lack of splendour. Gwen, thanks for the recommendation, it was well worth a visit! Didn't stay at the place hotel tho, I'm trying to keep the budget down. When I was looking for a  cheap ride (yes, budget indeed!) up to the LakshmiNarayan Temple, I kindov jumped on the first sole traveler I saw, which happened to be a handsome Italian haha, and we are hangin out ever since. He's a sweet guy, who probably doesn't  really know what to think of the funny Belgian, but hey, we get along alright and i actually got a free ride up to here from Orchha with his driver, AND got to swim in the pool at his luxurious hotel in Orchha aswell (he's travelling for just two weeks so his budget is slightly different from mine). Anyway, Orchha: check. It also happened to be my B-day yesterday so I was glad not having to spend it all alone; Alberto: thx for the company!!
Khajuraho is all about the temple complex that has many reliefs and statues with Kama Sutra motives. Not coïncidentially one of the most famous tourist sites in the country, and UNESCO protected. Might also get a motorbike tomorrow and go check the waterfall out of the town which is supposed to be awesome with my new Italian friend. We'll see.
Stay tuned my sweet friends,
greets and godspeed,
Tinie